Pop Culture Gear Is Getting More Luxurious, But Maybe It Shouldn’t

Pop culture goods have come a long way from basic black tees with movie titles screen-printed on them—you know the ones, you’d find them tucked away in a corner of a video store by the posters and collectibles. As millennial culture expanded the demand into mall mainstays like Hot Topic, which went on to grow online with its partner brands, more and more retailers focused on nerdy lifestyle and fashion inspired by major franchises and fandoms, such as Star Wars, Marvel, anime, Doctor Who, Lord of the Rings, and more. Just about every month, there’s a new Loungefly collectible accessory dropping in time for the latest holiday or tentpole release, and it’s been this way for the better part of a decade if Instagram fandom content is any indication.

However, thanks to the Barbie movie era, things have begun shifting away from the walking-billboard, influencer lifestyle mode. (Also, Gen Z has officially decreed that it’s cringe to make millennial geekery your personality; hello, my name is Sabina and I am a Disney Adult.) When Greta Gerwig’s Barbie was released merchandising went from cutesy camp to maximalist luxury with the iconic Mattel brand. There were hard to find movie tie-in dolls of Margot Robbie’s Barbie; a release of Ken’s “I’m Kenough” fuzzy rainbow hoodie; and Beis’ Barbie luggage collection, which sold out twice. The way one of the world’s most recognizable brands was everywhere, from home goods to travel to fashion, really felt like the peak of pop culture product finally being seen as commonplace in the mainstream.

But not every licensed piece of merchandise is entirely worth the cost. After Barbie made the world pink, you could find a themed Loungefly bag at your local AMC Theater—or splash out thousands more for a designer Chanel purse also inspired by the film.

This evolution into excess has heralded a new trend: IP images slapped onto very expensive things just for the perceived association between product and pop-culture brand. There’s no other franchise as widely available as Star Wars, which could probably open its own department store chain at this point. Fans can spend a lot on high-quality items, like the Columbia Star Wars gear that pairs rebel jumpsuit aesthetics with the brand’s reliable protection from the cold—or more questionable ones, like random “luxury” bedding sets with color palettes inspired by the imagery of movies that simply weren’t worth the cost for what you got (hard-working Rebels deserve better than scratchy sheets that fall apart in the wash).

Sometimes with this fandom in particular it’s better to play it safe; Disney’s collections offered at more affordable price points from the Disney Store often feature creative artist showcases, transforming beloved characters into something different. Sometimes gift shop souvenirs at the theme parks (which tend to go viral) feel more authentic to the world you love. I gifted my father one of the electronic Figrin D’an and the Modal Nodes Kloo Horns released when Galaxy’s Edge opened and haven’t seen anything like that since. Dad loves it as much as his RSVLTS Star Wars button-ups, one example of the company’s stylish collectible clothing drops. RSVLTS also features not only the big comic book fandoms and Disney but also hard-to-find IP like cult films and TV shows, and even anime like One Piece.

There’s something for everyone who gets excited about shopping fandom-themed products—be mindful about paying for more than the brand.Celebrating your fandom quietly with more subtle goods has thankfully become easier. For instance, luggage brand Beis followed up its Barbie drop with a Wicked one. Then, Heroes & Villains released a Star Wars luggage set shaped like in-universe cargo, as well as dining table sets with patterns that match the vibe of your favorite place in a galaxy far, far away. If you’re a new parent, brands like Lillebaby and Petunia Picklebottom have you covered with Disney collections to match your stroller and whatever else you need for kids on the go.

Most recently Wicked made a run for the hottest holiday merchandise, perhaps demonstrating the demand is there for even newer franchises. So much of it sold out, especially items inspired by lead characters Elphaba and Glinda, and included Wicked Stanley cups; Target’s exclusive fashion collection by Wicked‘s Oscar-nominted costume designer Paul Tazewell; exclusive retailer vinyl records (much like Barbie); and most recently with Wicked‘s home release, the coveted steelbooks.

There’s still some items you can find online inspired by part one before Wicked: For Good is out this fall; Bloomingdale’s designer drops of clothing, jewelry, and more are now on sale—because as we mentioned before, sometimes the logo does not make the goods worth it if they’re too expensive. In the meantime we’re waiting for the release of Disney’s Snow White live-action movie and Cinderella’s 70th anniversary to bring out more enchanting and classy Disney Princess pieces. Unique Vintage just rolled out its Snow White collaboration, and its giving fairytale core in the best way. Whether you like your fandom quiet or loud, just make sure it works best for you, and wear it proud.

Want more io9 news? Check out when to expect the latest Marvel, Star Wars, and Star Trek releases, what’s next for the DC Universe on film and TV, and everything you need to know about the future of Doctor Who.